Expedition guide renowned for Everest climbs claims utilization of xenon gas accelerates ascent, improves safety, benefits environment.
In Nepal, the application of xenon gas in mountain climbing for the ascent of Mount Everest has triggered debate and investigation, with potential implications for both climber safety and environmental impact.
Lukas Furtenbach, a well-known mountain guide, recently led a team of British climbers to conquer the 8,849-meter (29,032-foot) peak on May 21. The team, which departed from London on May 16, returned home two days later, managing one of the quickest ascents on record of Earth's highest peak, including their travel from home and back.
The team's use of xenon gas treatment has, nonetheless, ignited controversy and even raised concerns among Nepalese mountaineering authorities, who have declared an examination.
"The sole purpose for engaging with xenon is to make climbing safer, to shield climbers from high-altitude sickness," Furtenbach asserted to The Associated Press upon his return to Kathmandu. "We observe people dying on Everest every year, and this may well be a step in the right direction to enhance the situation, making high-altitude mountain climbing safer."
The climbers had immersed themselves in months of preparation, training in hypoxia tents, and were subjected to xenon gas treatment at a German clinic just two weeks prior to their departure for Nepal.
Normally, climbers spend weeks at base camp acclimating to the higher altitude. They conduct practice climbs to lower camps on Everest before their final assault on the peak, ensuring their bodies are adapted to the low pressure and reduced oxygen levels.
The new method is expected to reduce the duration climbers spend away from their home nations and decrease the number of workdays they need to take off, resulting in fewer expenses.
Furtenbach suggested that the ability to summit the peak in a short time might also result in reduced environmental impact on the mountain.
"Human waste is one of the most significant problems at Everest base camp. If people spend one week compared to eight weeks, there's a 75% reduction in human waste. This represents a significant reduction in garbage on the mountain and the resources that need to be transported to the base camp and up the mountain," he explained.
While Nepal lacks rules dictating the length of time climbers must spend acclimating or making practice climbs, the permits to climb Everest, which amount to $11,000 each, remain valid for 90 days. The climbing season typically concludes by the end of May, when weather deteriorates, and the monsoon season begins. Consequently, ropes and ladders fixed to the mountain are withdrawn.
Nepal's mountaineering department has publicly announced an investigation into the use of xenon gas. Furtenbach stated the gas was never employed in Nepal and promised to provide evidence demonstrating its safety for climbers.
[1] International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. (2023). Xenon Gas in Mountain Climbing: A Closer Look. Retrieved from https://icmf.org/xenon-gas-mountain-climbing
[2] World Anti-Doping Agency. (2019). 2019 Prohibited List. Retrieved from https://www.wada-ama.org/en/what-we-do/the-prohibited-list
[3] Gurubacharya, B. (2023). Xenon Gas Treatment Fuels Controversy and Investigation in Everest Climbs. The Associated Press. Retrieved from https://apnews.com/article/climate-and-environment-asia-business-everest-mountain-kathmandu-nepal-4b013eb4ae7f24e1c26ef1f36712cfc1
- The use of xenon gas in mountain climbing for ascents like Mount Everest has sparked a debate about its implications for both climber safety and environmental impact, particularly as it was utilized by Lukas Furtenbach and his team during their quick ascent.
- In an interview with The Associated Press, Furtenbach argued that the application of xenon gas aims to enhance mountain climbing safety by shielding climbers from high-altitude sickness, and he hopes it could potentially reduce environmental impact through shorter expedition durations.
- As xenon gas treatments are employed to allow climbers to acclimate more quickly, concerns about its safety and potential impact on the environment, especially concerning human waste and garbage, have arisen, leading to an investigation by Nepal's mountaineering department.
